Stratocaster tuning problems solved!

[Veenture]

I know, we're not talking Mosrite now but most of us are familiar with Fender's iconic Stratocaster and will probably own one -or more! I tip my hat to the Fender MIM Classic 50's Strat that I have (with 'standard' pickups and floating bridge). It sounds great and has always functioned perfectly ever since I bought it about 9 years ago and it has always stayed in tune, also after whammy bar action.

Now with my '57 Reissue USA Strat (also with floating bridge) it's been a different story. It was considerably more expensive but the sound is absolutely fantastic with those '57/'62 pickups and plays wonderful BUT I have always had tuning problems ever since I bought it new last year, which takes the fun out of playing it.

The cause was not due to the type of strings put on (coated Elixirs) or a nut that caused friction etc. Two days ago I decided to tackle the problem and solve it once and for all and so scrutinized every moving part involving strings. Finally I decided that the troublemaker must be the non-hard tail bridge. The bridge is anchored down on the body with 6 screws and that is where 'the rub' was! I gave each screw a quarter turn loose to allow the bridge to have absolute free movement and hey presto, gone were the tuning problems after that! Would you believe that I felt as if it was a NGD for me?! I'm really enjoying it now.

Thought you Strat owners would like to know

[dubtrub]

Good topic Paul.

Unfortunately a lot of people don't know that those screws are not suppose to be screwed down tight. I usually set my adjustment with a little light showing between the screw head and the plate on all six screws. Another thing I do is, I try to set up my Starts using all five tremolo springs but if the tension is too tight I'll drop down the four. I have three Stats and I use tremolo (vibrato) constantly on all my guitars and using all the springs and adjusting everything so that the tremolo plate rides about 1/16" off the body. This allows a good range of tremolo action and staying in tune always returning to pitch.

I use 9's on all my guitars and even my old original 62 Strat still has all five springs as it came from the factory. Most folks think that when going to lighter gauge strings one needs to only run the tremolo with the three springs. Then they wonder why it won't return to pitch. Well that's what that little claw that the springs attach to is for. Screwing those two big wood screws in or out is all it takes to finish off a great setup.

[Sarah93003]

Excellent information!

[vibramutant1965]

use the outer screws to " locate" the bridgeplate, make the 4 inside screws a turn higher than the outer 2. Make sure the nut is not binding the strings. Use a "tremnut" the strings will slide on it. Dont wind too much string on the posts. If the bridge is adjusted to rest on the body, this may help. Dont expect to go crazy with the bar and think it will work, it wont . Ask Floyd Rose.....

[olrocknroller]

All good info, plus check the countersinks under the screws to make sure they present a clean edge to the screws...if it is too blunt, or is rough, this can cause binding. I also use a hardened screw to absorb some of the wear without galling.

[Veenture]

Most folks think that when going to lighter gauge strings one needs to only run the tremolo with the three springs. Then they wonder why it won't return to pitch. Well that's what that little claw that the springs attach to is for. Screwing those two big wood screws in or out is all it takes to finish off a great setup.

Interesting and good that you should mention that Danny. I think those two big wood screws are of significant importance in relationship to the (amount of) springs employed but easily overlooked.

The setup I dared do myself went almost exactly as you described, Danny, the only difference being that I fitted mine with only 3 springs, making for feather-light tremolo-arm action (vibrato actually), same as my MIM Strat. But that is a matter of personal preference, like strings; I most always use 10/46's and lately have become partial to the lasting fresh sound of Elixir (coated) strings.

vibramutant1965's idea of the "use [of] the outer screws to " locate" the bridgeplate" is a good suggestion, as well as olrocknroller's 'clean countersinks'

[Strat-o-rama]

Another +1 for what Danny said. I have two Strats that get heavy trem use and they stay in tune for all the reasons you guys mentioned. I also go with 3 springs and a set of D'Addario ten to forty six (considering moving up to elevens for the Dick Dale trem picking).
One trick I learned from Tinsley Ellis years ago--when the new strings go on -stretch them. Practically pull them off the fretboard by tugging them midway down the neck sideways. Tug from both sides of the neck, but do it gently. Re-tune the guitar, and do it again. Retune the guitar and let it settle. Check the tuning, nut slots, do some big blues bends and some whammy action and check tuning. It should be good. I've changed strings an hour before a gig (with a Strat) and by doing this little procedure, it holds tuning just as well as broken in strings.
Now, when it comes to my Jazzmaster, I defer to my wife. She can sus out rattles and buzzes much faster than I can, and she set up the action on my Jazzmaster better than anyone ever has, and that includes some top luthiers here in our area. Because she can't play a note, I do the intonation part.