Guitar scratch remover

[sleeperNY]

Just a note on what I have found to remove fine scratches after buffing or just from use. It is Meguiar's SCRATCH X2.0. You don't even need a swirl mark remover after machine buffing. I have used almost everything out there on cars and guitars and I must say that this is the best I have EVER used. It works great by hand and you use very little of it. It also works with a machine but I would rather do the last buff by hand. Give it a try if you haven't already. This is just a bit of FYI that I thought many of you might like to know.

Jim

[Dennisthe Menace]

Thanks Jim, that's good to know! This might help a lot of members here looking to get rid of those irritating
fine scratches. And since Fender dropped Meguiar's, I don't think there's anything on the market....until now .

[Veenture]

This might help a lot of members here looking to get rid of those irritating fine scratches. And since Fender dropped Meguiar's, I don't think there's anything on the market....until now .

That figures...with all that 'Relic- & Roadworn Rage' going on there, lately ...........

[Bob Shade]

That is good to know, I use Meguiar's Diamond Cut. Have been for years. You have to get it at a pro auto supply, I don't think they carry it at the local car part store. Sounds like the scratch remover is a bit more aggressive. I am sure they both provide a great shine.

Bob

[mostlyrite]

Scratch-X (the old stuff, pre-2.0), combined with Zymol Cleaner-Wax, is how I detail every single instrument that I build or refinish.

When Scratch-X came out with their 2.0, I found it to be more aggressive than the original product; in fact it was too aggressive, especially on softer dark finishes. Then Meguiar's came out with a product called "Swirl-X". This seems to be the old Scratch-X, simply re-labeled. It's easier on finishes and really removes those spiderweb scratches.

3M Scratch and Haze remover is just as good, and Kit Scratch-Out is also excellent. These products and Swirl-X are all better than Scratch-X 2.0.

BE SURE that you're using a soft cotton cloth to apply the products and polish the surface. Synthetic cloths (even "microfiber" cloths) are monofilament and will scratch darker finishes in time.

Don't EVER, EVER, EVER use ANY KIND of paper product to apply wax or wipe down a guitar's finish. Paper towels, toilet paper, and facial tissues, no matter how soft they feel to your hands, face, and butt, will scratch the heck out of a painted or varnished finish.

Don't use and furniture products. No Pledge, Pride, or Old English Lemon Wax. No floor care products, either.

Unless, like Honey Badger, you just don't give a s**t...

[mark1]

I have had great results for many years using Novus #2 fine scratch remover. It's made to remove scratches and clouding on motorcycle windshields and helmet face shields. I also use Meguiar's Plastx cleaner and polish.Plastx is made to clear scratches and clouding from plastic auto head light covers.I use to use Buff-eaze from the local auto body supple store but can't find it any longer. I can't remember the grade # but it worked super for a final buff.

[oipunkguy]

i use an old fashioned buffing wheel with rubbing compound then I use a swirl remover that I have found local. after that i apply three coats of black magic car wax. I use to use maguires but I didnt seem to notice a difference between what I use now and then. if it all get you to a purtee shine, you should be a-ok. of course I'm always open minded to try something new