Basic Guitar Setup
Posted: Fri Aug 27, 2010 10:52 am
I have seen several questions regarding guitar setup, and thought I might help clear up some confusion by pointing out some "Rule of Thumb" settings... All of these settings can be "played" until the guitar suits you perfectly. Like playing, practice makes perfect in setting up your guitar... For good references on these topics check out the free info on the Stewart MacDonald website.
Bridge height:
Without knowing the playing style of a guitar's owner, I will set the bridge so that the strings clear the 12th fret by 3/32". Use stacked feeler gauges, slide them under the string, and adjust until they just make contact. If the player has a light touch, and the quality of the guitar allows, you can go as low as 1/16", so long as the neck is perfectly straight, with no relief at all. Be aware that guitars set up this low, with "0" relief typically have a bit less sustain, but if the player has long sessions, the comfort factor may outweigh the slight loss. At 3/32" you can safely play most rhythm styles with no buzzing.
Neck relief:
I usually first straighten the neck perfectly with no strings, and check the fret heights. If only one or two are high, I'll trim them individually, but if the entire neck is full of highs and lows, I "table" the neck...don't try this yourself, take it to a reputable shop! Once you know the frets are perfectly level, string up the guitar, and bring it up to pitch. If you straightened the neck in the first step, you will now find that you have up to .012" of relief at the 9th fret, depending on the gauge of strings you use. Hold the guitar in the playing position, and using a milled ruler (ordinary rulers are not straight enough!) check the relief at the 9th fret with a feeler gauge, and slowly adjust until you have about .004" of relief. This gives lightning fast action, and nice tone/sustain. Adjust the truss rod in 1/4 turn increments, and help the neck along by putting a soft pad under the neck at the 9th fret, and pressing down the head enough to lift the body as you turn. Re-tune the guitar, and check the relief at each 1/4 turn adjustment. It is NOT ADVISABLE to go beyond one full turn in any adjusting session without letting the guitar settle in for several hours. NEVER FORCE THE TRUSS_ROD NUT! If you encounter resistance find out why!
Nut slots:
A very touchy job, don't try it unless you own a good set of luthier's files. Do this with an old set of strings, better to break an old string... Capot the strings at the 5th fret, then measure the height between the string and the first fret. The larger gauge (low E) strings should be about .005" ranging down to as low as .001" under the high E string. Lift the string out of the slot, use the correct gauge of file, and SLOWLY work the slot down to the correct height, checking the changes frequently.
Pickup height:
Since people prefer different string action heights, I use the following method... Hold the strings down at the top fret, and bring the pickup to 1/8" of the strings. Play the guitar. If you detect any strange, or what are called wolfish sounds, lower the pickup slightly, until the sound is clear. This method gives good clearance, and optimum sound for most players. Rhythm players who use high action may want the pickups raised beyond this, but be aware that if they also play high registers, they may actually contact the pickup with the string...
With all of these adjustments, work slowly, accurately, and with patience, and you will have the "fastest guitar in town."
olrocknroller
Bridge height:
Without knowing the playing style of a guitar's owner, I will set the bridge so that the strings clear the 12th fret by 3/32". Use stacked feeler gauges, slide them under the string, and adjust until they just make contact. If the player has a light touch, and the quality of the guitar allows, you can go as low as 1/16", so long as the neck is perfectly straight, with no relief at all. Be aware that guitars set up this low, with "0" relief typically have a bit less sustain, but if the player has long sessions, the comfort factor may outweigh the slight loss. At 3/32" you can safely play most rhythm styles with no buzzing.
Neck relief:
I usually first straighten the neck perfectly with no strings, and check the fret heights. If only one or two are high, I'll trim them individually, but if the entire neck is full of highs and lows, I "table" the neck...don't try this yourself, take it to a reputable shop! Once you know the frets are perfectly level, string up the guitar, and bring it up to pitch. If you straightened the neck in the first step, you will now find that you have up to .012" of relief at the 9th fret, depending on the gauge of strings you use. Hold the guitar in the playing position, and using a milled ruler (ordinary rulers are not straight enough!) check the relief at the 9th fret with a feeler gauge, and slowly adjust until you have about .004" of relief. This gives lightning fast action, and nice tone/sustain. Adjust the truss rod in 1/4 turn increments, and help the neck along by putting a soft pad under the neck at the 9th fret, and pressing down the head enough to lift the body as you turn. Re-tune the guitar, and check the relief at each 1/4 turn adjustment. It is NOT ADVISABLE to go beyond one full turn in any adjusting session without letting the guitar settle in for several hours. NEVER FORCE THE TRUSS_ROD NUT! If you encounter resistance find out why!
Nut slots:
A very touchy job, don't try it unless you own a good set of luthier's files. Do this with an old set of strings, better to break an old string... Capot the strings at the 5th fret, then measure the height between the string and the first fret. The larger gauge (low E) strings should be about .005" ranging down to as low as .001" under the high E string. Lift the string out of the slot, use the correct gauge of file, and SLOWLY work the slot down to the correct height, checking the changes frequently.
Pickup height:
Since people prefer different string action heights, I use the following method... Hold the strings down at the top fret, and bring the pickup to 1/8" of the strings. Play the guitar. If you detect any strange, or what are called wolfish sounds, lower the pickup slightly, until the sound is clear. This method gives good clearance, and optimum sound for most players. Rhythm players who use high action may want the pickups raised beyond this, but be aware that if they also play high registers, they may actually contact the pickup with the string...
With all of these adjustments, work slowly, accurately, and with patience, and you will have the "fastest guitar in town."
olrocknroller
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